Shankar was safe from snakes after that. But he faced another, more mundane, trouble. There wasn’t enough water. What he got from the train was barely enough for drinking, not for a bath. And with the summer heat, the well dried up. Then he was told that about three miles to the east there was a small lake, where the water was drinkable, and the lake even contained fish.
Fishing and a proper bath were incentives enough for Shankar to venture eastwards. He got fishing rods delivered from Mombassa, and a Somali coolie showed him the way. The lake was actually not that small, with tall grasses around it, and a hillock a few yards away. There was a lone baobab tree on the hillock. He enjoyed a long bath and swim — his first time in Africa — before fishing for a couple of hours. He caught a lot of small fish. He was looking forward to frying them back at the station. He wanted to stay a lot longer, but duty called.
He regularly walked to the lake, some days with train coolies, other days he went by himself. Fishing was good, swimming too.
Meanwhile, the late summer had started. Some days, it was unbearable — too hot to walk in the sun after 9am, by 11am the heat wave would start. But he was told that this was nothing compared with central and southern Africa.
Then something happened that turned Shankar’s world around. It was one of those days when the heat was not too oppressive. He went fishing in the morning. On the way back, at about 3pm, about a mile or so from the station, Shankar heard a voice from the shade of a tall tree.
Shankar walked towards him. An European, wearing old and torn shirt and trousers, face full of red beard, large eyes, tall-ish, and once well-built but now very frail, probably from hunger and thirst. He was leaning on the tree trunk. He didn’t have a gun, but there was a bag next to him.
Shankar asked in English: Where are you from?
The man didn’t answer the question. Instead, raising his cupped palm, he said: Water, water please.
Shankar said: There is water a mile or so away, can you come with me?
Leaning on Shankar, practically carried by him, the man reached the station. It took them a long while to get to the station, the afternoon train had left in Shankar’s absence. Shankar made a bed for the stranger in the station room. With water, he gave him some food. The man was suffering from a fever. And whatever ailed him, it seemed that he would need a long rest for recuperating.
A while later the man gave his name: Diego Alvarez, from Portugal, but has been in Africa for decades.
What would Shankar do? If they had gotten the afternoon train then Alvarez would be in a town by now, with doctors and nurses and proper medicine. But the next train is in the morning. Could Alvarez survive the night? Shankar stayed up whole night to look after the stranger.
The moon started rising in the north-eastern quadrant, behind the small mountain range. The stranger had just gone to sleep it seemed when the lions roared. The stranger got up, looking bewildered. Shankar said: Lions. Outside. Door is closed. Don’t be afraid.
Shankar went outside after putting the stranger back to bed. The African night still gave him a strange sensation. The moonlight, the savannah, tall shadows of those tree — sure there was a lion within 500 yards, but he had gotten used to lions by now, lions didn’t keep him from enjoying the night.
When the clock struck two, he returned to the room. He saw that the stranger was sitting up. Please give me some water.
His English was rather good. Shankar gave him water, and some biscuits.
His fever was down, and he spoke more clearly. You thought I was afraid? Me, fear? Young man, you don’t know Diego Alvarez! He fell back to the bed, but there was a smile on his face — a strange mix of anger, sorrow and sarcasm. The tone of his voice and the smile suggested that this was no ordinary man. The short and thick fingers, a strong wrist, signs of a strong jaw behind the beard — this was a hard man before hunger and thirst got him.
The man continued: Come here. You have done a lot for me tonight. If I had a son, he wouldn’t have done more. But I don’t think I’ll survive. I think my time is up. But I don’t want to die indebted. Let me tell you something. You’re from India? How much you make here? For this pittance you’ve left home? No? For adventure? So you’re brave? You can take pain? Okay then, listen to me very carefully. But first promise me that you will not tell anyone a word of what I say before my death.
Shankar promised him thus. As the night turned into light, the stranger told Shankar his tale, a strange and exciting tale that is usually found only in novels.
This is the fourth chapter of Shankar’s adventure that I am recounting when in Africa. In the first chapter, we learn about Shankar. In the second chapter, he encounters a man-eating lion in East Africa. In the third, he escapes death from a snake bite.
Further reading
A scathing critique of Paul Kagame’s government
Michela Wrong’s book may stir consciences around the world
Economist, 27 March 2021
China is on a path to becoming a global military power; that path goes through Africa
Gady Epstein and John McDermott, 20 May 2022
Africa’s looming urban population explosion
The continent’s cities will expand fast this century — as will the challenges they face
David Pilling, 27 June 2022
An oil auction in Congo bodes ill for the climate
But the government says criticism from rich countries is hypocritical
Economist, 27 July 2022
U.S. Promotes Democracy in Africa as Rival Nations Expand Influence
The Biden administration says the push will bolster African and American interests, including the ability of the United States to compete against China and Russia.
Edward Wong and Lynsey Chutel, August 8, 2022
Chinese private security firms are growing their presence in Africa: why it matters
Alessandro Arduino, August 8, 2022
Tiny African kingdom has skiing as Europe sweats summer heat
Jerome Delay, August 9, 2022
The unexpected lesson of Ghana’s 17th IMF bail-out
It pays to ask for help early and often
Economist, August 11, 2022
How al-Qaeda and Islamic State are digging into Africa
The terrorist group’s African franchises are now punchier than those in the Middle East
Economist, August 11, 2022
South Africa’s fear of state failure
The African National Congress liberated South Africa. Now it is failing the country
Gideon Rachman, August 15, 2022
Kenya’s president-elect is a canny political operator with a talent for reinvention
Economist, August 16, 2022
The Ulugurus offer unique wildlife and glimpses of a historic matrilineal culture
Sophy Roberts, August 20, 2022
Africa’s Rapid Economic Growth Hasn’t Fully Closed Income Gaps
Despite decades of rapid growth, regional inequalities in sub-Saharan Africa persist.
Habtamu Fuje, Jiaxiong Yao, September 21, 2022
The most liveable cities in the Middle East and Africa
Living conditions are improving—but familiar problems remain
Economist, 22 September 2022
Malawi has saved its democracy but not its economy
It remains the world’s poorest peaceful country
Economist, 22 September 2022
Africa Food Prices Are Soaring Amid High Import Reliance
Factors include the region’s heavy reliance on food imports and changes in food consumption and incomes.
Cedric Okou, John Spray, D. Filiz Unsal, September 27, 2022
Why political parties are a growth industry in Lesotho
There are few better ways to make a living than founding one
Economist, 6 October 2022
Not terrible.